You will need:

• 2×6 timber
• Wooden posts
• Wooden gate
• Rubber matting
• Quick dry concrete
• Adhesive tape
• Landscape fabric
• Metal anchors for landscape fabric
• Gate
• Gate latch
• Fencing panels
• Crushed gravel
• Tamper
• Rake
• Saw
• Drill
• Nails
• Galvanized lag screws
• Utility knife
• Metal stakes
• Metal brackets for wooden gate
• Wrench
• Hammer
• Post hole digger
• Measuring tape
• Pencil

Step 1: Use the saw, drill, and nails to create a frame from the 2×6 timber that will serve as a framework for a dog run. Consider using recycled timber that is a combination of recycled plastic and scrap wood. It is durable and long lasting so you should not need to replace the structure for many years.

Step 2: Secure the frame into the ground where the dog run will go. Hammer one spike into the ground at a corner of the box. Anchoring one corner allows you to see how crooked the frame is and make adjustments. Take a measurement of 4 feet from an outside corner and make a mark on the timber. Measure and mark 3 feet on the adjacent corner. If the length between the two marks measures 5 feet, the area is squared away.

Step 3: Tap metal stakes into the ground around the interior of the frame, tapping them in 3 to 4 inches deep and then attaching them to the timber by drilling a screw through them into the wood. This keeps the box secure when the dogs play in it.

Step 4: Roll the landscape fabric out in the interior of the frame. Attach it to the ground with the metal anchors.

Step 5: Pour the crushed gravel over the landscape fabric to create a smooth substrate for the rubber floor. After filling the area with the gravel, smooth it with a rake. Drag a piece of scrap lumber over the width of the area and use the tamper for additional smoothing.

Step 6: Roll out the rubber matting and use the measuring tape and utility knife to cut it to the length and width of the frame. If the matting is not wide enough to fill the entire frame, cut two pieces to the proper dimensions and use adhesive tape to seal the seam.

Step 7: Create walls and a gate opening for the frame, using the fencing panels, a gate, wooden posts, a post hole digger, metal brackets, galvanized lag screws, and a wrench. For added stability, dig holes that are 1/3 the length of the posts.

Step 8: After putting the posts into the ground and tapping them down, secure them with mixed quick-dry concrete.

Step 9: Attach a latch for the gate so you can easily access the area.

Tip 1: Create a shady spot for the dog to rest in during a hot day. A doghouse can trap heat so this is an unsuitable location. One solution is to fill a kiddy pool with water to provide a cooling off place for the pooch.

Tip 2: Give the dog cool, fresh water to drink throughout the day.

Tip 3: Never leave a dog in an enclosed vehicle on a hot day because car interior temperatures can reach three digits in just minutes.

Tip 4: Let dogs take it easy during very hot days. Keep short-faced dogs inside and turn on the air conditioning. These dogs do not pant efficiently, making hot weather even more uncomfortable for them. If you must walk your dogs, go during early morning or after the sun has set.

Tip 5: Do not force dogs to walk on hot sand or asphalt for prolonged periods because these surfaces can burn their paws.

Tip 6: Even dogs can get sunburn so limit canine exposure to the sun and apply sun block to the nose and ears 30 minutes prior to a day in the sun.

Tip 7: At the beach, prevent the dog from drinking salt water, which can make it sick. Also, keep an eye out for jellyfish and sea lice that may prey on dogs.

Tip 8: After fertilizing or chemically treating a lawn, keep the dog off of it for at least 24 hours or as long as recommended by the product manufacturer.

Tip 9: Treat the dog to prevent mosquitoes, ticks, and fleas, which come out in full force during warm weather.

You will need:

• Ceiling fan
• Grill
• Organic grill cleaner
• Locally grown produce and other food
• Reusable plates, drinkware, and utensils
• Low-flow showerhead

Step 1: Look for local activities that are low-impact from an environmental perspective. Have a picnic at the local park, hike in the woods, go to the beach, or attend the zoo or a ballgame. If you do not want to leave home, read a book on the deck or patio.

Step 2: Limit air conditioning use by turning up the thermostat a few degrees and opening windows or using ceiling fans instead whenever possible. This reduces energy use and saves you money while keeping you cool.

Step 3: Grilling uses less energy and keeps the kitchen cool so head outside to grill some summer meals. Propane burns cleaner than charcoal briquettes or wood. If you have a charcoal grill, use natural charcoal, which is much cleaner than traditional briquettes. Clean the grill as recommended, using an organic cleaner that does not leave a chemical residue.

Step 4: When shopping for food to grill, buy locally from farm markets and local butchers. Locally sourced foods do not require as much fossil fuel for transportation, reducing the level of air pollution and depletion of resources.

Step 5: Use reusable plates, drinkware, and utensils rather than the disposable kind. If china and glass are too much of a risk, choose plastic dining sets that will not break if dropped. When there is no alternative but disposable items, look for those that are compostable.

Step 6: Limit water consumption by installing a low-flow showerhead and watering plants and grass only when necessary.

Step 7: Use natural methods like planting rosemary or spraying the garden with concentrated garlic extract to deter mosquitoes.

You will need:

• Slate, tile, or concrete flooring
• Ceiling fan
• Lighting
• Shades or blinds
• Sunroom furniture
• Plants

Step 1: Choose a floor material that tolerates prolonged sunlight exposure. Slate, tile, and concrete are a few low-maintenance options. To add warmth and make the floor more comfortable, add area rugs or carpet the floor.

Step 2: When temperatures rise, this room can get hot due to the amount of sunshine pouring in through the windows. Make sure the area is properly ventilated by using windows that open and adding a ceiling fan to circulate air. You will enjoy the sunshine without feeling uncomfortably hot.

Step 3: During the day, light from the sun should be enough to illuminate the room. If you want to enjoy the room at night, install enough light for reading, watching television, or playing games. Though there is no need to over-light the area, you want the room to be functional.

Step 4: Shades or blinds control how much sunlight enters the room. Blinds come in horizontal or vertical styles and an assortment of designs. Translucent screens block UV rays while permitting you to see past them.

Step 5: Sunroom furniture should be resistant to sunlight so it will not fade. Furniture with metal, bamboo, or wicker frames is a good choice because these materials can handle consistent hot, humid conditions. Cushions should also feature a sun-resistant quality. Some manufacturers create cushions designed for patio or deck furniture and these would be appropriate.

Step 6: Use sun-loving plants to decorate the room. These thrive in a sunroom and they relax and rejuvenate occupants. They make the area look more appealing and many types are not difficult to maintain.

Step 1: If you use wall or central air conditioning, increase the thermostat by between two and four degrees. Use ceiling fans or small portable fans to circulate air through each room, making the area feel cooler. These fans reduce the reliance on air conditioning and cost less to operate. Many families are able to keep their home thermostat at between 74 and 76 degrees and use only portable or ceiling fans to stay comfortable. If no one is home during the day, purchase and install a programmable thermostat and set it to turn on the air conditioning shortly before you arrive home, cooling the home for the night.

Step 2: Contact your electricity provider to see if it offers an energy saving program. A device will be installed to control electricity use during peak hours and participants receive a discount on their electricity bill. This is ideal for families who are away from the house during the day or for a vacation home.

Step 3: Just like you use window coverings to block cold air during winter, use them to block warm air and the sun during summer. Curtains and shades are particularly effective at protecting the west and south sides of the home from all-day heat and peak temperatures during the afternoon. Keep the windows covered during these times.

Step 4: Prepare your meals outside on the grill. This keeps the stove and oven from heating up the home and uses less energy to cook food. Some families even prepare only cold meals like cold cuts and salads during certain days of the week, avoiding cooking.

Step 5: Install an attic fan to pull hot air through the house and force it outside. This also creates nice air flow, making the interior of the home feel cooler.

Step 6: Fully insulating the home keeps it cooler during warm weather and warm during cold months.

Step 7: Put down storm windows and make sure that door and window weather stripping is sufficient to prevent hot air from entering the home.

You will need:

• Plywood sheets
• Flat boards
• Plexiglass
• Galvanized screws
• Hammer
• Nail gun
• Nails
• Saw
• Rope
• Pulleys
• Pencil
• Paper

Step 1: Look in the yard to find a sturdy tree that has a thick trunk, roots that grow deep in the ground, and branches that could support a lot of weight. Identify a sturdy branch that is about five feet from the ground that will serve as the location for the treehouse. If necessary, prune the tree to permit access to the area. Determine whether the tree will serve as one of the four posts for the treehouse or will be a supporting leg.

Step 2: Draw plans for the tree house on paper, sizing the structure appropriately based on the size of the tree and designated branch. Pre-made plans are available at bookstores or online. Choose one that is easy to follow and practical for the intended use.

Step 3: The foundation of the treehouse is a key element. The house should sit near the tree trunk and be strengthened by diagonal bracing. It should balance centrally on the tree to prevent swaying caused by uneven weight distribution. The foundation could be an open-air structure or an enclosed room. After developing it, secure it to the tree using a rope leasing method. If this is not possible, use galvanized screws because ungalvanized nails rust easily.

Step 4: Once you have secured the foundation to the branch, add the floor. This can be made from exterior plywood sheets or flat boards and flexible or fixed supports. The same type of wood can be used to build the roof and walls or these areas can be assembled on the ground and carried up to the treehouse. Use the shape of the tree to create angles and shapes for the tree house. If the structure will have windows and doors, use Plexiglass and make them suitable for the size of the structure.

Step 5: If desired, build a deck for the treehouse. It can be attached or on a nearby sturdy branch accessible by crossing a rope bridge. Put railings around the deck for safety reasons.

Step 6: Develop a way to access the treehouse. If the structure is near the ground, a rope or wooden ladder is acceptable. If it is higher up, build a spiral staircase that winds around the tree trunk. Kids love to hoist up their toys and other items so build them a platform that raises and lowers via a pulley system.

Tip 1: The store should be local, not a branch of a pet store chain or the pet department in a department or discount store. Local stores usually carry higher quality pet care products and have healthier animals. They consider which animals are popular with the local population and workers are more likely to provide knowledgeable, personalized service. In addition, large chains tend to carry cheap imitation pet care products under their own brands.

Tip 2: The store should look clean, be well-lit, feature wide aisles, and be neatly organized. Animal cages should be lit appropriately and look clean. You should see evidence that cleaning takes place regularly, such as cleaning supplies in the back of the store.

Tip 3: When you enter the store, an employee should greet you and ask if you need assistance or have questions. If all workers are helping other customers, one should acknowledge that he or she will be with you shortly.

Tip 4: Most of the animals should appear healthy. If the store carries fish and there are many dead fish in multiple fish tanks, be wary. Most stores only have a few fish die each day and the corpses should be removed promptly.

Tip 5: Employees should answer questions honestly and directly, rather than misleading you just to make a sale.

Tip 6: If you are purchasing fish, a good pet store will not carry dye injected or painted fish. Employees will not recommend purchasing a tank or bowl under ten gallons. They will also not recommend an algae eater or catfish to clean a tank because they know that these creatures usually increase waste and tank maintenance.

Tip 7: Employees of a good pet store will encourage customers to read books about how to care for pets. They will also recommend a veterinarian consultation for a sick pet. They will not try to diagnose the illness themselves.

Tip 8: Good pet stores do not carry cats or dogs because most of these would come from puppy mills. Employees will advise customers to visit a local animal shelter or Humane Society to adopt these pets. If the customer has a specific breed in mind or wants a kitten or puppy, the employee will recommend contacting a local breeder.

Tip 9: Only a shop that specializes in reptiles should carry these pets. Amphibians and reptiles are typically negatively affected by the loud, active environment of a regular pet store.

Tip 10: Only a shop specializing in birds should carry large birds. Specialized equipment and a lot of space are required to keep large birds in good health.

You will need:

• 1×6-inch boards
• 1×4-inch boards
• 4×8-inch plywood sheet
• 2 cabinet doors
• door hinges
• drill
• Kreg jig
• finish nailer
• orbital sander
• nail gun
• nails
• screws
• clamps
• wood trim
• wood glue
• tin ceiling tiles
• beadboard
• paint
• paintbrush
• tape measure

Step 1: Measure the space where the built-in will be installed in the bathroom. Cut the plywood sheet to create the top face of your built-in.

Step 2: Use the Kreg jig to drill holes into the 1×4 boards, creating pocket joints for your built-in frame.

Step 3: Run a bead of the glue along the edges of each 1×4 board. Connect the joints of the boards and secure the wood with a clamp. Drill screws through pocket joints, securing the wood boards. Repeat to create a frame featuring three sections for shelves.

Step 4: Sand the face frame with the orbital sander, smoothing the surface and joints.

Step 5: Drill into four of the 1×6 boards with the Kreg jig, making pocket joints. Repeat Step 3 to make a box.

Step 6: Run a bead of glue along the back edges of the box. Put this side of the box onto the back of the face frame made in Step 3, creating the top shelf. Drill these structures together with screws to secure them.

Step 7: Apply wood glue to the backside of your box. Lay the beadboard on the back to close it. Secure the beadboard to the box frame with the nail gun and nails.

Step 8: Make shelf bottoms for the two lower areas of the built-in. The result will be two storage cabinets under a shelf.

Step 9: Put the frame into your bathroom wall and secure it as necessary. Paint the shelf and frame and let the paint dry. Apply a second coat, if needed.

Step 10: Paint both tin ceiling tiles to match the built-in. Let the paint dry and then use the finish nailer to attach one tile to the front of a cabinet door. Attach pieces of trim to frame this door and paint them. Repeat the process for a second door.

Step 11: Attach door hinges to the cabinet doors. Use these to connect the doors to the lower two sections on your built-in face frame.

You will need:

• Picture frames
• White paper backing for prints
• Masking liquid
• Cold-press board
• Plastic or silk greenery
• Paint brush
• Spray paint
• Newspaper
• Eraser
• Tape measure

Step 1: Cover your work surface with newspaper. Measure the inside of each picture frame and cut a cold-press board piece with dimensions that are one inch smaller on each side.

Step 2: Brush the masking liquid along the edges of each board, using imperfect strokes. Wherever this liquid is applied to the board, spray paint will not adhere. Paint quickly because the liquid dries quickly.

Step 3: After the masking liquid has dried, put a piece of plastic or silk greenery on top of each board. The greenery can extend past the board edges but make sure it lays flat. This may require you to bend it a bit.

Step 4: Keeping the greenery on the board, spray it with a single coat of spray paint.

Step 5: Remove the greenery and let the paint dry, using the drying time guidelines on the can of paint.

Step 6: Remove the dried masking liquid carefully from the board edges, beginning at the corners and using your fingers to guide the removal.

Step 7: If you are unable to remove sections of the dried liquid, use the eraser to get it off the board.

Step 8: Put each board on a white paper backing and then put it into a picture frame. Hang the frames on the walls of your home, arranging them together in a collage or displaying them separately.

You will need:

• Vapor barrier roll
• Cement boards
• Metal wrecking bar
• Hammer and nails or heavy-duty staple gun and staples
• Seam tape
• Caulk
• Bleach
• Sponge or rag
• Protective gloves
• Safety goggles

Step 1: If the shower has a window or door, inspect the area for gaps and caulk these.

Step 2: Put on the safety goggles and protective gloves. Use the metal wrecking bar to remove the shower wall. Depending on the age of the bathroom, you will be removing plaster and lath or drywall.
Inspect the wall cavity for mold or rot. Repair any rotting areas. If mold is present, use a sponge or rag to apply bleach to the area and wait overnight before proceeding.

Step 3: Roll the vapor barrier onto the wall, allowing it to extend two inches below the footing. When water settles on the vapor barrier, this setup will keep it from seeping into your bathroom floor. Put a double layer of vapor barrier on each joint.

Step 4: Staple or nail the barrier to the wall studs, ensuring a snug fit and maintaining a two-foot distance between staples or nails. This will keep the barrier in place. Use seam tape to seal all seams in the barrier installation. This tape is designed to prevent water from seeping through the seams.

Step 5: Complete the wall by installing cement boards over the open area. Greenboard or drywall is not recommended because it cannot tolerate the trapped moisture. Cement board is breathable so it will permit moisture to pass to the barrier and evaporate through the cement.

You will need:

• 4-ounce package of low-calorie, sugar free lime-flavored gelatin
• 6 squares (1/2 cup) of low-fat honey graham crackers, crushed finely
• 1 16-ounce container ( 1 ¾ cups) of fat-free cottage cheese
• 8-ounce container of fat-free frozen whipped dessert topping, thawed
• 8 ounces fat-free cream cheese, softened
• 2 tablespoons margarine, melted
• ¾ cup boiling water
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• Key limes, wedged
• Mixing spoon
• Whisk
• Spatula
• Plastic wrap
• Small bowl
• Large bowl
• Square 2-quart baking dish
• Food processor or blender

Step 1: Combine the sugar, margarine, and graham crackers in the small bowl. Press this mixture into the bottom of the baking dish and refrigerate.

Step 2: Combine the boiling water and gelatin in the large bowl, stirring until the gelatin has dissolved. Set this aside.

Step 3: Combine the cream cheese and cottage cheese in a covered food processor or blender, processing or blending until smooth and stopping a few times to scrape the sides of the container with the spatula.

Step 4: Whisk ½ cup of the cheese mixture into the gelatin. Whisk in the remaining cheese mixture until the batter is smooth. Fold in the whipped dessert topping. Spoon this filling over the refrigerated crumb mixture.

Step 5: Cover with the plastic wrap and refrigerate until the filling is firm, between eight and 24 hours. Cut into squares and top each with a lime wedge before serving.

You will need:

• Maple wood
• Miter saw
• Jigsaw
• Router
• Pocket jig
• Drill
• Drill bit that fits pocket jig holes
• Square drill bit
• Roundover bit
• Coarse thread wood screws
• Table clamps
• Drum or belt sander or planer
• Butcher block oil and finish
• Lint-free, cotton cloths
• Tape measure
• Pencil

Step 2: The butcher block effect will be created by a staggered, random pattern of joints. Use the miter saw to cut different lengths and widths of wood pieces to fit the dimensions of the countertop.

Step 3: Anchor the pocket jig to the short end of a piece of wood that will adjoin another. Drill two holes through the jig and into the wood. Clamp this piece of wood to another piece. Put the square-tipped bit on the drill and drill the wood screws into the holes to connect the two pieces of wood.

Step 4: Repeat this process to connect the lengths of the wood boards. Use the same techniques to connect the boards across the width of the countertop. Keep the seams as close-knit and tight as possible. You can build the countertop in several sections to make it easier to run through the drum sander or planer.

Step 5: Run the sections of boards through the sander or planer to create an even and smooth countertop surface. If you do not have this equipment at home, have this done by a professional.

Step 6: Use the clamps, pocket jig, drill, and wood screws to attach the sections of the countertop to create a single piece.

Step 7: Use a standard paint can as a template for a corner radius. Place the can on top of the countertop near one edge. Trace the curve of the can with the pencil. Repeat at the other three corners. Use the jigsaw to cut along these lines, creating rounded corners.

Step 8: Attach the roundover bit to the router and run the tool along the long edge of the countertop, going with the grain. Repeat on the other three edges.

Step 9: Wipe the sanding dust off the countertop. Use the cloths to apply the butcher block oil and finish to the wood. This is food-grade safe and protects the wood from spills and stains. Let the first coat dry and apply two more coats, letting the oil dry between each coat.

Step 10: Follow the kitchen cabinet manufacturer directions to install the countertop on top of the cabinets.

You will need:

• Composter
• Lawn mower
• Rake
• Aerator
• Rain butts
• Organic weed killer
• Tiller
• Grass seed

Step 1: The best way to go organic with lawn care is to make your own lawn treatment products. Establish a composting area in the yard and spread the material on the lawn to provide it with nutrients. Watering the lawn can be expensive and is increasingly subject to municipal restrictions. A water butt collects rainwater, which contains fewer chemicals and more nutrients. Provide the lawn with an inch of water each week, watering during early morning. Liquid seaweed is an excellent organic fertilizer when applied monthly.

Step 2: The lawn should be mowed on the highest setting possible. Higher grass stays healthy and is able to combat issues like weeds and insect infestations. It also provides shade to roots and allows the ground to retain moisture. Enhance the effects of natural fertilizer by leaving grass cuttings on the lawn.

Step 3: A good raking removes thatch, which prevents moisture from reaching grass roots. An aerator should be used at least once per year to remove hard dirt buildup. This equipment is not expensive and can even be rented.

Step 4: Weeds should be handpicked or treated with an organic weed killer. Allowing birds, frogs, and insets into the yard regulates the pest population. Install bird feeders and use plants to encourage helpful insects. Do not wipe out any kind of insects completely because each one is important to the ecological balance.

Step 5: Every lawn gets bare patches due to use. Loosen the soil in these patches and apply a mixture of grass seed and compost. Walk over the seed to compact it and water the area with rainwater from the rain butt.

You will need:

• Wall fish
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Drill
• ½-inch spade drill bit
• 3/8-inch diameter phone installer drill bit
• Phone wire
• Butt-type phone wire connectors
• Cable stapler
• 9/16-inch staples
• Surface mounted phone jack
• Wire strippers
• Tape
• Drop cloth

Step 1: Locate the phone jack in the room next to the room where the jack will be added. Look for a jack on the other side of the wall where you plan installation. Lay the drop cloth down on the floor under the jack. Disconnect any phone hooked up to this jack and use the screwdriver to unscrew the wall plate. Disconnect the wires from this jack.

Step 2: Check to see if the phone wire feeds into the wire box from the bottom. If so, you may have enough room to run another line through the same hole. If not, put the ½-inch drill bit in the drill and drill a hole into the bottom of the wire box.

Step 3: Install the 3/8-inch bit on the drill and drill a hole into the wall at a spot above the baseboard and directly beneath the phone jack. Drop the telephone cable through the wire box hole and snag and pull it through the new hole with the wall fish.

Step 4: Keep the 3/8-inch bit on the drill and drill a hole approximately 6 inches from where the phone line is protruding from the wall. Drill the hole through the wall into the room where the new jack will be installed, being careful to keep the drill bit straight.

Step 5: Go into the room where you are installing the new jack. Push the wall fish through the new hole into the other room. Go into that room and tape the telephone cable to the wall fish, then go back to the other room and pull the wall fish through the wall.

Step 6: Remove the cover from the new wall jack. Screw the back of this jack into the baseboard or wall. Use the wire stripper to strip back the phone cable, revealing the four wires.

Step 7: If you will be installing a second line, hook only the black and yellow lines to the jack and tape the green and red lines together. Otherwise, install the red and green lines and tape the others. Screw on the jack cover and secure the telephone cable to the wall with the cable stapler and staples.

Step 8: Go back to the other room and staple the wires there. Cut excess wire in the box, strip back the wires, and use the phone wire connectors to connect the proper wires, depending on which line you are installing.

Step 9: Screw on the wall jack. Seal the holes on both walls with caulk.

Step 10: Plug a telephone into the new wall jack to make sure you hear a dial tone.

You will need:

• 1 pound boneless, skinless salmon fillets, cut to form 2-inch pieces
• 4 ciabatta buns or Kaiser rolls, split
• 1 cup (8 crackers) herb-seasoned crackers, broken
• 1 egg
• Olive oil
• 3 tablespoons honey or Dijon mustard
• Sliced green onions (optional)
• Sliced avocado (optional)
• Pastry brush
• Cooking spray
• Food processor

Step 1: Put the crackers into the food processor container, cover, and process crackers until they are coarsely ground.

Step 2: Add the egg, half of the salmon, and 1 tablespoon mustard. Cover and process again until mixture is combined and salmon is ground. Add the remaining salmon and mustard, then cover and pulse again using several cycles until the salmon is chopped coarsely.

Step 3: Wet your hands and shape this mixture into four patties, each ½-inch thick.

Step 4: Use the pastry brush to lightly brush the patties with olive oil.

Step 5: Grease the grill rack with cooking spray. Turn heat to medium and grill the patties directly on the rack until cooked through, approximately 3 minutes per side. Leave the grill lid up while cooking. During the last 1 or 2 minutes, grill the buns, with their cut side facing down.

Step 6: Put a burger in each bun and top with the sliced green onions and avocado, if desired. Provide extra toppings at the table including lettuce, tomatoes, more mustard, and pickles for the side.